The Americas

The Carribean: Land of rum and sugar

Judith Baker — Fri, 26 Apr 2013 12:25:19 +0100

The ferry docks in the tiny port of Charlestown on the Caribbean island of Nevis and a noisy flurry of meeting and greeting, unloading and unpacking takes place. We have completed the short journey from sister island St Kitts to explore the historical richness of Nevis, named by Columbus when he first sailed past its shores in 1493.

He thought the clouds surrounding its peak looked like snow and the island's original name was Nuestra Senora de las Nieves (Our Lady of the Snows).

As one of the earliest colonies and the closest (in nautical terms) St Kitts & Nevis was prized by the British, creating a model for the lucrative plantation system based on sugar and slavery.

As well as a strong colonial background and links with Admiral Nelson the islands that make up the Caribbean nation of St. Kitts and Nevis, while extremely small, also have a rich Jewish history.

After being expelled from Brazil in the 17th century, Jews began to settle on this string of islands. At its height, the Jewish community here constituted around 25 per cent of the population.

These mostly Sephardic Jews brought their expertise in sugar production including how to crystallize sugar and make rum from molasses

The Jewish community erected a synagogue in the capital Charlestown around 1684 and a Jewish cemetery located on Government Road, which can still be seen. It contains graves

It contains graves dating from 1679 to 1768. There are 19 surviving markers in the cemetery which bear inscriptions in Hebrew, English, and Portuguese.

A quick stroll around the charming town with its mix of French and British colonial buildings brings me to Jews' Walk, which is where people believe the synagogue once stood. At the end of the 18th century, most of the Jewish population left Nevis, leaving the cemetery abandoned.

Today, a major archaeological effort is under way to preserve and uncover more of it. It is believed that researchers may find a still undiscovered Jewish school and even another synagogue.

Admiral Nelson met and married local beauty Fanny Nisbet here. She was a young widow with a five-year old son and they were married under a silk cotton tree in Nevis in 1787.

A copy of the marriage certificate is on display at the Saint John Figtree Parish Anglican Church and the cotton tree still stands on Montpelier Plantation. From there it is a short trip to Saddle Hill Fortress, Nelson's lookout point for spying on enemy ships

As well as the fascinating Nevis Heritage Trail, which gives an insight into these cultures and historical influence, the tiny island has all the sights and experiences that one expects from a Caribbean destination, but without the crowds.

Beautiful beaches, hiking trails, water sports and golf are all here. You will spot the cheeky Green Vervet monkey as you travel around the island, as well as colourful hummingbirds, lizards and mongeese.

In addition to some fine dining restaurants at establishments such as the Four Seasons there is also a lively vibe and great food at beach bars such as Sunshine's, Chevy's and Double Deuce at the pretty Pinneys Beach.

Try local dishes such as freshly caught fish such as snapper and mahi mahi, washed down with cold beer and the sounds of live calypso.

Chicago, my kind of town

Andy Mossack — Thu, 13 Dec 2012 17:14:40 +0000

Not many people would think of Chicago as a holiday destination. Many see it as a stop-off to somewhere else, since it is one end of Route 66 and a major hub for United Airlines.

However, it has a fascinating history — the famous prohibition era of Al Capone, the emergence of its iconic blues music scene, as musicians and immigrants travelled up from New Orleans through the Mississippi Delta.
Oh, and let’s not forget the striking architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright who once said: “Eventually, I think Chicago will be the most beautiful great city left in the world.”

It’s the home of the deep dish pizza and the 22,500 square miles of Lake Michigan, the fifth largest lake in the world, is on the doorstep.

Surely it deserves at least a two-day stay. Follow our guide to what promises to be an interesting short break:

Day 1 -

Morning
Kick off your first morning with breakfast at Eggy’s Diner, one of Chicago’s newest eateries near the Fairmont in East Lakeshore Park. There are plenty of vegetarian options.
Take the morning to explore the city: Chicago Architecture River Cruises run by the Chicago Architecture Foundation, will guide you on a 90-minute tour 50 towering skyscrapers on either side of the Chicago River. The Foundation also conducts daily tours of Wright’s home and studio.
Or try a downtown walking tour with a local guide who will take you to many of the city’s hidden gems, such as Marshall Fields’ historic department store, the underground Pedway system and the fascinating Block 37.

Afternoon
Stop for lunch at Lou Malnati. This chain of family owned deep-dish pizza restaurants is an institution in Chicago. Lou Malnati opened in 1971 and his restaurants have used the same recipes and suppliers ever since. They will be the best pizzas you have ever tasted. Period.

Afterwards, explore 350 acres of Millennium Park and Michigan Avenue which runs all the way down one side. At the top end nearest the river, you’ll find Anish Kapoor’s extraordinary “Bean” sculpture or Cloud Gate to give it its proper name.

You’ll also see the 50-foot high Crown Fountains near here, where images of 1000 Chicago citizens blink smile and wink at you then spout out water from their mouths!

As you stroll further down Michigan, you can grab a spot of culture at the Art Institute; it’s the building guarded by two green lion sculptures. Opposite is the beginning of the famous Route 66. There’s a small plaque marking the spot and a little further down is the Blackstone Hotel where Al Capone went twice a week to have his hair styled.

Lastly, just at the far end see the haunting headless and armless Agora Statues, created by Polish Holocaust survivor Magdalena Abakanowicz.

The Field Museum has a huge mix of exhibits from the life of Ghenkis Khan to the history of chocolate, but top billing goes to Sue, the best preserved and most complete T-Rex ever found. She is 67 million years old and over 40 foot long.

Evening
Try out a wonderful selection of fish and vegetarian options by master chef Yoshi Katsumura at Yoshi’s Café in Chicago’s Lakeview neighbourhood on Halsted Street. Or enjoy contemporary fish and vegetarian gastro-pub fare at The Gage, just steps from Millennium Park on Michigan Avenue

Nightlife
Cap off a packed day with a taste of the real Chicago blues at Buddy Guy’s Legends blues club, a venue that has been the stage for pretty much every famous blues musician on earth. If you’re lucky, Buddy just might be on the bill.

Day 2

Morning
For quality and choice a Sunday Brunch at 16 on the sixteenth floor of the Trump Hotel will be hard to beat. Thirty-foot high windows give you a great view of Lake Michigan too.

Otherwise, Allium at The Four Seasons; Chef Kevin Hickey pays tribute to some old Chicago classics from his days growing up in Bridgeport neighbourhood including cheese lavosh.

The Chicago History Museum is a must for your second day; the brand new Shalom Chicago exhibition reveals the history of Chicago’s influential Jewish immigrants as seen through the eyes of real family members.

Afternoon
Enjoy a quick lunch at Lincoln Park favourite, RJ Grunt’s, a quirky homage to the ‘60s and ‘70s. Then shop till you drop on Armitage Avenue where notable stores include Lori’s Shoes, Art Effect and Thread Lounge Inc.

Then take a ride on the famous L train or Loop, a raised section of track offering great views of the downtown area. You’ll see a few locations from the Blues Brothers movie too. Then jump on the red line to Clark and Division to Lincoln Park and take a stroll around the free entrance zoo.

For the very best bird’s eye view not just of Chicago, but Illinois, Indiana, Michigan and Wisconsin, The Sky Deck is not to be missed. It takes 60 seconds to rise 1,400 feet up 103 floors of the Willis Tower and then you walk out onto a transparent box jutting out of the building. It really feels like you’re standing in the sky.

Evening
The brand new City Winery in Chicago’s trendy West Loop dining district is mix of fine wines, music and culinary arts all under one roof; a fresh approach to dinner theatre. It’s the brainchild of Michael Dorf, founder of The Knitting Factory, one New York’s longest running music venues.

Alternatively, treat yourself to a fine dining experience at chef Anthony Martin’s Tru which offers a $98 fixed price menu featuring an array of mainly fish specialities.

Nightlife
The Second City is an ‘improv’ comedy club and the training ground for Mike Myers, John Belushi, Tina Fey, Steve Carell and Bill Murray.

This is just snapshot of what Chicago has to offer. As Michael Douglas once said: “Hollywood is hype, New York is talk, Chicago just works.”

www.choosechicago.com

Getting there:
PACKAGE: America As You Like It has a three-night package from £740 per person, based on two sharing and including return flights on American Airlines from Heathrow to Chicago and three nights room only at the Swissotel Chicago. Subject to availability. Tel: 020 8742 8299
www.americaasyoulikeit.com

Canyon Fodder in Arizona, USA

Andy Mossack — Tue, 30 Oct 2012 16:39:18 +0000

This was right up there, dare I say it, with the day I was married and the births of my two children. The glorious red sandstone canyons of Sedona (most famous being the Grand Canyon) are breathtaking any time of the day, but when you’re hurtling through them in a helicopter with no doors and just a single strap between you and fresh air, boy do they take on a whole different dimension. We had only just met, but throughout that 35-minute flight, Pete the fearless pilot, was my new best friend.

The beauty of taking a helicopter ride through Sedona’s stunning landscape is that you get to see entire sections of it that are otherwise hidden or inaccessible; the 2,000 foot high Secret Canyon, the majestic Mogollon Rim running over 200 miles right across Arizona and the long-abandoned cave dwellings of Sedona’s ancient Sinagua Indians, the region’s first settlers, who after many years of contented living, mysteriously vanished.

Perhaps, it’s the mystery of the Sinagua that first fired the imagination of the new age movement, whose members believe spiritual vortices exist in Sedona’s sandstone.

With vast formations such as Cathedral Rock, Bell Rock and Airport Mesa, standing like red silent sentinels rising out of the surrounding flat desert, it’s hard to argue.

Sedona’s downtown area is equally as mystifying; a collection of arty high- end stores and seriously wealthy habitations co-exist with tourist excursion offices and new age “harmonic convergence centres”. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not tacky — just very unusual. There is even a guitar playing female rabbi in the local shul.

Former nightclub-chain entrepreneur David Warr, together with his daughter Jen, have left the nightlife behind and created a stunning organic vegetarian eatery, The Chocolate Tree Cafe, where “life force energy abounds”.
They explained the ingredients in their food were so natural and powerful, that they did everything from “reducing heart disease to potentially avoiding the onset of cancer”.

Sensing my obvious disbelief, Chef David almost convinced me eating his chocolate cake, made from 100 per cent raw cacao, was so full of “good calories”, I would lose weight eating it. That said, he made some astonishing vegetarian dishes with flavours you would swear were fish or meat. It was pure genius. Just a couple of hours’ drive from Phoenix, Sedona’s charms are very seductive.

Hollywood movies shot here feature everyone from John Wayne to Johnny Depp. The scenery is awe-inspiring, the desert tours are immense fun and there is a style and quality to the place that is hard to beat. Not far from here is Clarkdale, the terminus for the Verde Canyon Railroad; a four-hour train ride retracing the old mining track from Clarkdale to Perkinsville beside the mighty Verde River. Another chance to see some wilderness wildlife and some more of nature’s colourful canvas.

The infamous mining town of Jerome high up on Cleopatra Hill is also not far away. Once one of the wealthiest towns in the USA and dubbed the “wickedest town in the west”, it was the epicentre of the gold and copper rush in the 1880s and a hot bed of vice and violence. Today, whilst many of Jerome’s old buildings remain (along with a few ghosts, I’m led to believe), the town is mostly inhabited by artists, craftsmen and restaurants.
The images of the “wild west” are embodied by these old mining towns, none more famous perhaps than Wyatt Earp’s Tombstone — and by the stunning Sonoran desert, home to the unique Saguaro cactus whose giant arms stretch skyward as if in permanent surrender.

It’s a land steeped in the legacy of over 20 Native American tribes, including the Navajo and Hopi.
Many of the tribes have realised their lands falls outside the US gambling laws and have constructed vast casino-based resorts across much of America. The Talking Stick Resort just outside Scottsdale is a good example.
But don’t forget modern Arizona and its impressive cities like Phoenix, Mesa, Glendale, Tucson and Flagstaff. And what about the architectural wizardry of Frank Lloyd Wright, whose winter home, Taliesan West in Scottsdale, is still a magnet for visitors.

Tempe is a charming small town and a perfect base for touring the busier Scottsdale and Phoenix areas.
I took the opportunity to visit the nearby Papago Park and the Desert Botanical Garden, a spectacular collection of cacti and desert flora, including many more examples of my favourite Saguaros, set in 140 acres and ringed by the fascinating geology of the surrounding Senoran desert.

Scottsdale is a golfer’s paradise and home to the legendary TPC Stadium and Champions Courses. Club manufacturer Ping has its headquarters here and you can tour the factory and have an afternoon of analysis.
Literally every facet of my golf swing was analysed by computer. The tours are free but you’ll need to make a reservation first.

Arizona is a part of the US where you can still experience a bit of that pioneering spirit, find exceptional five star luxury accommodation and let loose the cowboy in you. Of course, the only thing I brought back with me was Chef David’s chocolate cake recipe. Well, a guy’s got to lose weight somehow.

GETTING THERE:
America As You Like It offers a six-night Arizona package for £1295pp (with BA flights direct from London Heathrow to Phoenix), or from £1090pp (with US Airways via Philadelphia) for a late November departure. Includes flights, car hire, two nights at Fairmont Scottsdale Princess Resort, one night at Tempe Mission Palms, two nights at Alma de Sedona (see review) and one night at The Tavern Hotel in Cottonwood.
www.americaasyoulikeit.com

020 8742 8299
More info:
www.arizonaguide.com

An idyllic Caribbean getaway in any season

Andy Mossack — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 11:33:58 +0000

June and July in St Kitts may be high summer, but it is low season as far as the tourism industry is concerned. Away from the peak months from November to March, the only noticeable difference is the lack of people; that and the odd short sharp shower, a welcome relief from the hot sun and a time when hotel prices and air fares are lower.

For me, it was the perfect opportunity to enjoy a Caribbean getaway where for once, the locals outnumbered the visitors.

So what does this two-island nation offer? There are remants of St Kitts' former sugar and slave industry and it was at Independence Square in the capital Basseterre,where slaves were sold and where many were executed. The grand plantations they worked on have been converted into luxury hotels, but under the buildings around the square, the cellars and tunnels remain where slaves were chained together waiting to be brought up into the park for auction.

The best example you'll find on the island is 800 feet up a hill where the 17th century British built Brimstone Fortress. It overlooks the south coast and is one of the best-preserved historical fortifications in the Americas and a UNESCO world heritage site.

St Kitts' dramatic history gives an added attraction over the tropical sun, sand and sea combination of other Caribbean islands. Tourism has been the island's main source of income for only 20 years since the end of sugar production, so island life hasn't changed much over the centuries.

Away from the main resort area of Frigate Bay, there are plenty of villages where local culture and traditions remain the focal points of daily life, along with rum and reggae of course.

There is something special about sitting outside in an easy chair, sipping a rum punch (made from a secret family recipe) and listening to some soft reggae sounds as the sun goes down.

The island has peaceful coves and beaches, like Turtle Beach or South Friars along the south east peninsular, or there are more hedonistic pursuits at resorts and beaches around Frigate Bay in the south.

Whilst Basseterre is a small colonial town (it only has four main streets running east to west and one main street running north to south) it was at one time the most important port in the West Indies.

The 17th century Treasury and Customs House still proudly stands guard as the gateway to the island, but these days serves as the National Museum chronicling much of St Kitts' dramatic history. The Circus, in the town centre, is at the bustling heart of it all. Like a miniature version of Piccadilly Circus, (it even has a small monument in the middle of it) you'll find most of commercial life here, amongst its white colonial buildings. After dark, when the work is done, Fort Street's 'lime' bars open up and the partying begins. You won't find lime cocktails in a lime bar; it's just a term for having some drinks with friends. So chill out and go liming down Fort Street.

A few minutes' walk from Basseterre's centre you'll come to Port Zante, St Kitts' cruise liner terminal where you can buy tax-free goods and wander around more tourist souvenir shops than there are rum punches.

You can see most of St Kitts in a day; after all, it's only 18 miles long and six miles wide, dominated by Mount Liamuiga, majestically rising out of the island's volcanic centre. Wherever you go, you'll have sea views; the Caribbean on the west side and the Atlantic on the east, with lush tropical vegetation and rainforest dominating the interior.

The rainforest is home to the highly entertaining Green Vervet Monkeys. Find a quiet spot to watch them frolick. The Brimstone Hill Fortress is worth seeing and make sure you also visit Romney Manor where you can pick up some delightful handmade Batik based prints and traditional island garments and wander around its beautiful gardens.

Go for a ride on the Sugar Train and take a pleasant three-hour ride around the island in air-conditioned comfort on the rail tracks formerly used to transport harvested sugar cane.

St. Kitts' adjacent is more than just a nearby island; it is the other half of this two island state and worth a day trip or two. A mere half hour away by ferry from Basseterre, Nevis has a completely different feel to St Kitts.

This small sombrero shaped island is half the size of St Kitts but what it lacks in size it makes up for in natural charms. It is a tranquil place where all the beaches are public and the way of life slow and serene encapsulated by its little quaint capital Charlestown.

Visit the Montpelier Plantation Inn, a boutique Inn immortalised when Princess Diana stayed there with William and Harry. Just a few yards away is the tree under which Lord Nelson married Fanny in 1787. Talking of Nelson, you can stay at his former home, now the luxury Nisbet Plantation Beach Club, where a set of air conditioned villas lead you away from the Great House across the manicured lawn to a secluded private beach.

Whilst all the relics of St Kitts and Nevis' slave-dependent past might seem to many of us to be symbols of repression and enslavement, the people of St. Kitts see them instead as permanent reminders of their roots; a nation once emanating from Africa but now justly proud of their beautiful island home. And trying it out of season away from those peak months of November to March will still deliver you some outstanding sun but at much more affordable prices.

Now, where did I leave that rum punch?

Welcome to the jungle

Robin Mead — Thu, 03 Nov 2011 11:59:00 +0000

I loved being at sea. Not having to pack and unpack made me feel settled. And the various facilities such as the swimming, shipboard entertainment, learning to dance, extensive on-board library and the fine food all made the 14 days at sea (and of course, the rest of this 35 day cruise) crossing the Atlantic to the Amazon in North Eastern Brazil, pass by quickly.

The first stop of the cruise was at the pleasant but fairly uninteresting port of Santarem that nestles on the bank of the Tapajós River, near its confluence with the Amazon River.

But things looked up when we stopped at the tiny village of Boca de Valeria the next day where our visit proved to be a superb experience.

This is where I met Maria. She was dressed in a spotless green sleeveless tee-shirt and a short linen skirt and her feet were thrust into a pair of flip-flops.

Leaning over the balcony of her house in the village she had the same welcoming smile as all the other 100 or so residents of this tiny riverside settlement on the banks of the mighty Amazon river.

"Would you like to come and visit?" she called.

It is not every day that one has the opportunity to take refreshments in a Brazilian river dweller's house, so we nodded enthusiastically and clambered up the wooden steps to the single-storey home.

Like the other buildings, even the church, it was raised by stilts to protect from occasional floods and curious jungle wildlife.

Instead of dogs and cats, the children keep sloths, monkeys and young alligators as pets.

Her pride and joy were her modern kitchen appliances: a cooker running on bottled gas, a fridge, a huge freezer, and TV set.

Boca do Valera might be in the middle of nowhere, but in booming Brazil, traditionally famed for its coffee, the electricity pylons and TV masts have brought all modern conveniences to the remotest spots.

When I booked a round-trip winter cruise there, sailing from Southampton, I felt as though I was planning a voyage of exploration and packed enough jungle kit to make an old-time explorer like Stanley Livingstone feel well-equipped.

So, sailing upriver through the jungle and finding so much modernity came as quite a shock.

After the quaint, familial village life at Boca do Valera we docked the next day at the contrasting metropolis of Manaus, one of the world's greatest (and fastest-growing) cities.

This was an overnight stay which meant that we had two much needed days to explore all that the vast city, the largest in northern Brazil, has to offer.

Manaus, capital of the State of Amazonas, though an industrial centre, is a fantastic cruise destination, and a transport hub.

There are few roads hereabouts, so long-distance river buses run with the regularity of clockwork,.

Located at the very heart of the continent, also has a far from faded glamour about it. This is where to buy your emeralds, amethysts and opals at a third of the price you would pay elsewhere.

The 115-year-old pink-painted Renaissance style Opera House is probably the grandest building in South America. It is beautifully kept and still stages performances by world-famous operatic stars at very regular intervals and the Amazonas Film Festival makes an annual appearance too.

The last stop was at Parintins, a small city located on Tupinambarana island. It is mostly known for its folklore festival held each June called Boi-Bumbá, but not much else.

The Amazon river is fed by countless tributaries and is also unbelievably vast: it is wider than the English Channel at its mouth, and hundreds of miles inland it is still too wide to see across.

The only clues to the fact that you have left the South Atlantic ocean are the muddy-coloured water and the huge drifting islands of vegetation which must make the navigator's task a nightmare.

Many modern cruise liners are simply too big to risk sailing amid the shifting shapes of the Amazon, but my floating home – Fred Olsen's 28,000-ton, 850-passenger Boudicca - was ideal for the trip.

Denver: Join the mile-high club

Sharron Livingston — Tue, 11 Oct 2011 10:51:58 +0100

The mile-high city of Denver, famed for the Dynasty TV series (remember those padded shoulders and over-the-top fashion the women wore?). It's not just a place to land before heading on to the Interstate 70 Highway to Vail, Aspen or Crested Butte ski resorts. This sprawling city is a year-round destination famed as the culture capital of Colorado, and the former cow town is a beautiful city in its own right.

The streets are beautified with a wonderful mix of architecture and an abundance of green areas with the stunning backdrop of the Rockies towering on the horizon. The city has a substantial Jewish community and a little-known fact is that Denver is twinned with the city of Karmiel in Haifa, with whom it shares a mild climate, low humidity and an appealing mountain backdrop.

Here are my top picks in and around this highly navigable metropolis. So, get your spurs on and see 'em while they're hot:

Must swoop in
The only airline that flies direct to Denver International is British Airways. Economy fares start at £234 one way. www.britishairways.com

Must stay
For a funky retro-styled boutique hotel that thinks it's a stand-up comedian, stay at Curtis Hotel. You are welcomed with warm chocolate chip cookies, and the lift sings out differing songs on arrival depending on the theme of your floor – could be movie, music or TV. It is ideally located in Downtown Denver within walking distance of the Art Museum, and you get great views over the Rockies. doubletree1.hilton.com

Must stay for business traveller
If the Curtis sounds a little juvenile, go for the far more elegant Marriot hotel located opposite the Cherry Creek shopping mall. Valet parking, large marble reception, spacious, well-decorated rooms with marble bathrooms and a plush Concierge Club (for those staying on floors 10 and 11) all set a truly sophisticated scene. www.jwmarriottdenver.com

Must visit
The Denver Art Museum is a sensational icon in the heart of the city. It has been created with shimmering titanium and glass and was designed by Daniel Libeskind who took his inspiration from the Rockies. Inside is an equally sensational collection of American Indian, Pre-Columbian and Spanish Colonial art. There's a funky Andy Warhol contribution called The American Indian. Top tip: The museum is free to visit on the first Saturday of each month. www.denverartmuseum.org

Must pray
There are a handful of synagogues of varying denominations in Denver but the BMH-BJ is the only one to offer separate orthodox services: one with a mechitzah and the other offering mixed seating. Its membership numbers 650 families and you can pray with them in their spacious, modern synagogue and admire their lovely stained-glass windows. www.bmh-bj.org

Must pop by
Be sure to pop into the colourfully packaged Mizel Museum. It depicts the historical journey of Jews throughout the millennia and offers a great introduction for kids and those who wish to know more.

Also, if you have a moment, there is a memorial at Denver's 27-acres of parkland at the corner of Yale and Havana called Babi Yar Park. It commemorates the thousands of Jews, gypsies, Ukranians and others who were murdered between 1941 and 1943 at the Babi Yar ravine in the ouskirts of Kiev.
www.mizelmuseum.org

Must shop
Cherry Creek shopping centre is vast and has everything from Saks, Louis Vuitton, Nordstrom and Banana Republic. Also head out to Downtown Denver to 16th Street open air mall where a free shuttle service is on hand. www.shopcherrycreek.com

Must get the look
Denver has shrugged off its cowboy image and frontier lifestyle that came with the likes of Buffalo Bill and the Gold Rush in favour of city living. But a well buffed pair of cowboy boots, a finely shaped Stetson, a pair of wrangler jeans with a buckle belt and a pearl-snap Western-cut shirt can still look fetching. And since "Papa" Jack Weil invented the snap-button Western shirt (as worn by rock stars and presidents) right here in Denver, it seems churlish not to check out the flagship store and museum in Lower Downtown at Rockmount store. Their hall of fame includes photographs of Ronald Reagan and Eric Clapton in full Western wear. www.rockmount.com

Or trot over to Sheplers where you can rustle up all sorts of designer Western gear (including Levis jeans). www.sheplers.com

Must chill out
The appealing Larimar Square, a historic block in Downtown Denver, is hemmed with plenty of independent shops and an eclectic mix of chef-owned restaurants and nightlife options from comedy to beer haunts and wine bars.

Must jog
On Sunday mornings, the people of Denver awaken early to jog around any one of 200 local parks. But the largest and most beautiful is Washington Park. Join them on your bike, skateboard or in a pair of trainers. This 63-hectare space has two sensational formal gardens, one of which is a replica of George Washington's garden at Mount Vernon. There are two lakes (where you can fish if you so happen to have a rod), bowling greens, tennis, basketball courts, playgrounds and an indoor pool.

Must sip the local brew
Denver brews so much beer (more than 100 varieties at the last count) that you can think of it as the Napa Valley for beer. Probably the most famous, and indeed the city's first brewpub, is Wynkoop. This jovial drinking hole was founded by the mayor, John Hickenlooper, who sold out when he became Colorado state governor. It sprawls over two floors with bars on both floors. On the upper floor are 22 billiard tables (they spawned many a champion) and two shuffle boards. There is a menu of comfort food and if you order the humous plate, they suggest you twin it with their light Rail Ale 4.5% ABV. For something a little sweeter try their Cowtown Milk Stout, 4.8% AVB which goes well, they say with their chocolate brownie, cream cheese and walnut dessert. www.wynkoop.com

Must smell the flowers
The Denver Botanic Gardens is a floral feast in the heart of the city. There are 45 gardens, an eight-acre corn maze, a huge observatory, streams and fountains offering lots of inspiration for your inner gardener. www.botanicgardens.org

Must take a hike
Nestling in the Rockies as it does, the city has come up with a unique mountain park system for hikers and cyclists. It comprises 14,000 acres of splendid scenery where your eyes can graze on buffalo herds while following a rocky trail, or fish in Echol Lake.

Must go to a concert
Be sure to also fit in the Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre. All the good and the great have sung here alfresco, surrounded by huge red rocks and beautiful greenery and mountains. There is a summer-long programme of concerts but even if there is no show, visit anyway. There is a museum with a film to watch, and when the sun is ready to set take a seat and watch the light show as it descends behind the rocks. www.redrocksonline.com

Must go for a drive
Get hold of some wheels and head for the lovely Bohemian town of Boulder around 40 minutes away. This is where hippies would hang out in the late 1960s. Saunter through Pearl Street Mall, browse the weekly farmer's market and then have tea at the ornately decorated Duchanbe Tea House - a gift from its sister city Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, in 1987. The tea-house is by a brook, as is the Tajik way.

Must play golf
Tee off or simply take tea at the 18-hole Arrowhead Golf Club in nearby Roxborough.The foothill views are simply breathtaking and you may encounter a squirrel, deer or even a bear on your way round.

The course is surrounded by extreme elevations and thousands of ancient yet stunning, red sandstone rocks.

Be warned, though, this course is not designed for beginners. Hole number 2 is uphill par 5 and the shot onto the green is blind. At number 13 you tee off from an elevated T box, which drops down to a much lower green. And getting around tends to be slow because players can't help but admire the views and take pictures. The cost is $100, which may sound a lot, but it includes the green fee, cart fee, practice balls, meals, snacks and non-alcoholic drinks. www.arrowheadcolorado.com

Must join the mile-high club
The stately Colorado State Capital Building, home of the Colorado Legislature, has an unmissable, sparkling domed roof encrusted with 303 ounces of 24-carat gold. Pillars on the west entrance are topped with carved stone statues. Inside are several hand painted images of US presidents from George Washington through to Bill Clinton.

Top Tip: Stand on its 13th step and you will be 5,280 feet above sea level - exactly one mile high.

Taking the Mickey out of Orlando

Sharron Livingston — Thu, 06 Oct 2011 11:12:24 +0100

Orlando is famous for the Disney attractions and a nightlife zone the size of Manchester. Together they attract British holidaymakers in droves. Yet, I couldn't help wondering whether the region of Orlando and Kissimmee is a destination in its own right? Or is Disney the only reason to visit?

Driving along Irlo Bronson Highway (a segment of the 75-mile long arterial Highway 192), doesn't inspire confidence. There are fast food outlets, Disney souvenir shops and several Flea markets selling tat in drab buildings. On the bright side though, you can buy 10 T-shirts for $5 and get your teeth whitened for $49. And every now and again there is a reason to stop or detour.

As hard as it is to imagine, the area was once a cow town. But this piece of cowboy history lasted less than a century stopping suddenly in the 1920's when Walt Disney bought up the lands in the name of Mickey Mouse making the ranch owners very rich.

'Those people were Crackers', said the curator at the Pioneer Museum on nearby Bass Road. She smiled at the surprised look on my face and explained: "the sound of their whips as they rounded up cattle made a cracking sound hence the nickname". Dotted around the open-air museum in Kissimmee are wooden buildings made from Cypress trees in board and baton method that depict life when cowboys ruled and lived off their land.

Apart from steak houses, there's no sign of them anymore except perhaps in Downtown Kissimmee. The shops are still owned by 'mom and pop' many offering cowboy or other antique collectibles and unusual souvenirs.

But what happened to all those horses? My guess is that they now appear in two shows that take place nightly along the highway. I enjoyed them both. In reality they are horse pantomimes where horses show off circus style tricks around a themed story: Arabian nights and Medieval nights. Both offer fantastic family fun, and come with dinner - both offer vegetarian dishes on request.

One Saturday night I checked out a different type of horse power in Old Town, an area of tourist shops, bars blaring out music and a huge fun-fare.

But as the evening draws in the place turns into a classic car parade. More than 250 owners turn up and line them up, some with their hoods up showing off gleaming engines. "I've been doing this for 14 years" Bob announced "never missed a Saturday night yet".

Pointing to his 1932 Ford 5-window coupe he explains "this one is a fibre glass replica, it came with skinny wheels and fenders. I changed the horse power so I had to replace the wheels too." Will he sell it? "Sure ma'am, if I get an offer of $60,000 but that's not the reason I come. This place is known around the world. The atmosphere among the cruisers is great and we compare notes,."

A rock and roll band plays in the background almost masking the screams from the nearby fun-fare rides while owners strut their stuff and show off their cars to fawning visitors.

At 8.30pm the American national anthem blares out from speakers, owners ignite their motors and soon 250 classic cars of all shapes and sizes cruise around the town to howling onlookers. The noise is incredible.

The region is famed for its alligators. I could have zipped over them at the 110-acre Gatorland, the region's oldest attractions, or just viewed them in their breeding marsh.

But I chose to view them in the wild at Boggy Creek on board an airboat gliding through the Everglades. As I boarded alongside 16 other passengers, Captain John advised: "It gets windy so hold onto your dentures".

During the 30-minute ride over carpets of yellow water lilies, through bull rushes and cat tails, Captain John pointed out several alligators (whose sex, incidentally, is determined by temperature, the hotter it gets the more likely they are to be male), turtles and various birds in their natural habitat.

For me, the most surprising discovery happened when I turned off Highway 192 at Osceola Parkway. The landscape transformed from busy, noisy highway, to the most gorgeous idyllic little town of calm and beauty called Celebration.

It was built by Disney to create a place where people would live and work and unsurprisingly what he created is a stunning town with a pretty lake, fine restaurants, twee shops and appealing wood homes.

Finally, a spot of retail therapy is always welcome and Kissimmee offers opportunities to shop at a discount. The Nike store on the Old Vineland Road of Highway 192 has bargains galore in their warehouse, as does Puff Daddy's favoured denim store, the 13,000 square foot World of Denim (Irlo Bronson Highway) where you can get a pair of designers jeans by the likes of Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren at discounted prices.

The Orlando premium outlets just outside town is perfect for Barney, Burberry, Armani and a clutch of other factory stores offering their bargains.

Every night, it was good to retreat to my rental accommodation at Reunion Resort (see full review), a beautifully put together village 15 minutes drive from the bustle of the Highway. Mine was a three-bed (all en-suite) condo overlooking a golf course.

The question still remained, could I stay in Orlando and not be tempted by the beckoning call of Mickey. Truthfully, probably not. If I had kids in tow, what would be the point of missing out, however, its good to know that there are other options.

On track across the Rockies

Jan Shure — Thu, 08 Sep 2011 11:15:48 +0100

Perhaps it helped to be travelling in the slipstream of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. Or perhaps Canadians are just naturally warm people.

Whatever the reason, a notable aspect of a recent summer trip from Calgary to Vancouver aboard the Rocky Mountaineer train, preceded by a day in the charming town of Banff in the heart of the Alberta Rockies, was the boundless charm of everyone we encountered, all the way to the bus driver who when she realised she had forgotten to let us off at the Banff Park Museum, turned her bus round and delivered us to the museum's door.

Banff is an aesthetically pleasing town. It has a bright, clean main street and offers every kind of store, high-quality souvenir shop, Seattle-style coffee shops and restaurants offering food from every continent. It also has gorgeous river-side paths and bike trails, and the most eye-ravishing alpine scenery visible from every point in the town.

The finest views of this chocolate-box wonderland of shimmering lakes and fir-clad mountains are from the top of Sulphur Mountain, reached via a cable-car ride aboard the Banff Gondola.

From there, you can gaze at the Rockies, bisected by a winding river and dotted with opalescent lakes, or you can trek the walkway to the now defunct Cosmic Ray Station and meteorological observation centre to see the hut, now a museum, where the weather watchers lived for months at a time during the 1950s and 60s.

At the base, a bus goes back to the centre of town, via the town's best - and best known - hotel, the Fairmont Banff Springs.

Next morning, after a short coach journey to Banff Station, we boarded the Rocky Mountaineer, the luxury train that was to glide us the 600 miles through the Rocky Mountains and across the Canadian Prairie to Vancouver. Our route, "First Passage to the West", travelling the Canadian Pacific Railway tracks, is one of four offered by Rocky Mountaineer in Alberta and British Columbia, they range in length from three hours to two days.

As passengers enjoying the top-tier Gold Leaf service (there is also silver and red leaf) we had seats on the upper deck of a double-deck carriage, equipped with glass sides and roof, to optimise the dazzling views. The lower deck is the dining car, where meals are served.

There is a soothing rhythm to a trip aboard Rocky Mountaineer. Her average speed is 30mph and the stewards offer an occasional commentary, explaining the route, and landmarks like the Spiral Tunnels, waterfalls or the more exotic wildlife. We saw bald eagles, bear, elk, horses and a cluster of roe deer, though you had to be quick to spot them, and it helps to have binoculars. For the first day, the view is of green-clad slopes, snow-capped peaks, translucent, eerily turquoise lakes and endless blue sky. For most of the trip, the air and the water display their shiny cleanliness with a flashiness that makes a city-dweller envious. You pass through a pristine and endlessly beautiful wilderness which you can observe but not harm.

Food and wine is a big part of the Rocky Mountaineer experience, with quality Canadian and imported wines served with the excellent food, on starched white linen, fine china and fresh flowers. Lunch includes at least two dishes suitable for the kosher observant such as fresh Pacific salmon or sea-bass and risotto. And the on-board chefs will adapt dishes for you.

And as you eat, read or just gaze from the window, the alpine scenery of Alberta gives way to the equally beautiful alpine scenery of British Columbia. Then, because the train is not a sleeper, at around 6.30pm, the train pulls into a siding at Kamloops for overnight hotel accommodation. Ours was The Thompson, named for the river which runs through Kamloops.

Next morning, after breakfast aboard Rocky Mountaineer, we chugged alongside the Thompson River, watching as the landscape flattened. We dawdled past Murray Creek Falls, crept across the bridge at Jaws of Death Gorge, and chugged through the Hell's Gate Tunnel, amused by names which sounded like they had been plucked by from a Sherlock Holmes novel. By the time we had lingered over lunch we were entering the Fraser Valley, the lush, arable region north-west of Vancouver whose produce helped the city develop its reputation as a foodie paradise.

By late afternoon, we were crossing the Fraser River for the final 30 or so miles into downtown Vancouver and journey's end at the Rocky Mountaineer station.

This is an unmatchable way to see Western Canada, whilst being wined, dined and generally pampered in five-star fashion.

Getting there

Flight: British Airways fly from London Heathrow to Calgary, returning from Vancouver five times a week. Fares from £727.93.
Transfer: Banff Airporter operates 12 shuttles a day from Calgary Airport to your Banff hotel at £33 per adult/£16.50 per child.
Where to stay: The Fairmont Banff Springs offers double rooms with breakfast. Rates from CAD389
Excursion: Rocky Mountaineer offers the two-day First Passage to the West, from £596 Red Leaf Service; from £964 Silver; and from £1,207 Gold. Price includes all meals and onboard wine and snacks, overnight in hotel, transfers and luggage delivery. 00800 0606 7372
More info: www.myalbertaadventure.com

Bowled over by Barbados

Barry Toberman — Thu, 21 Jul 2011 11:26:15 +0100

Rain stopped play - three words to dampen the spirits of any cricket aficionado. The weather breaks were even more dispiriting in the idyllic surrounds of the Kensington Oval in Barbados as tropical downpours punctuated the third day's play of the Test between the West Indies and India.

Along with other members of the smallish crowd, I made a beeline for the sanctuary of the covered area of the modern arena, redeveloped for the 2007 Cricket World Cup, to join other holidaying Brits drowning their sorrows in the bars selling the local Banks beer.

As is generally the case in the Caribbean, every cloud has a silver lining.

I first visited the Bridgetown ground in 2008 when the Aussies were touring. The weather was perfect, attendances were decent and the travelling fans found a home from home in the party area in one corner of the ground, featuring its own bar, plunge pool and music. The party area remains, as does the shambolic ticketing operation.

Based on my previous experience of queues and confusion at the venue, I'd departed early on day one from the hotel to take the local bus into Bridgetown.

As well as an inexpensive means of seeing parts of the island omitted from organised tours, or the more direct route taken by taxis, the journey can serve as a musical introduction to Barbados as a boom box seems to come as a standard accessory for passengers.

Kensington Oval is a 20 minute walk from the main shopping area. It took longer, as I discovered that residents share the Jewish propensity to willingly proffer directions, irrespective of accuracy.

Although the ground was encouragingly bathed in sun for the start of the Test, I failed to witness the opening ball, or indeed many subsequent deliveries, being delayed in the snaking line of disgruntled punters outside the tiny ticket office.

With tickets supposedly reserved in my name, I managed to persuade a police officer to escort me to the head of the queue, to the transparent annoyance of those going nowhere fast.

It was a naive assumption that the tickets would be located, but at least the woman behind the counter took pity on me.

Yes, I could buy one for the day, if not for the following match days. The cost was just 20 Barbados dollars, equating to less than £7 (what did I say about clouds and silver linings).

Outside England,Test matches can no longer draw the crowds attracted by one-day games and starting the match on a Tuesday certainly did not find favour with the island's populace.

Caribbean cricket is going through something of a trough. When a Barbadian starts a sporting conversation, it is more likely to involve Manchester United or American basketball.

But those who love their cricket bring an uninhibitedly enthusiastic vibe to the proceedings. And particularly so when the Windies reduced the Indians - without star men Tendulkar or Sehwag but still fielding a strong side - to four wickets down for under 40 in the opening session.

"Fast and straight, fast and straight," the man seated behind me incessantly implored the home bowlers.

When the Windies' batsmen proved no more adhesive than their opponents, their failures were greeted by some ribald and in some cases, alcohol fuelled invective. And the match sponsors kept the party spirit going by distributing "noise-makers" among the promotional giveaways. Something that would never happen at Lord's.

Home spectators happily engaged in banter with their overseas visitors, who were as tempted by the smells emanating from the catering huts as by the cheap booze as lunchtime beckoned.

Talking of food, I could only admire the entrepreneurial chutzpah of the elderly guy wandering our stand selling bags of quite decent fried fish snacks.

"Last two" was his constant refrain, irrespective of how many portions he was carrying on his tray. To the huge amusement of all around, he was still shouting "last two" when down to his last one.

Another Bridgetown landmark is the synagogue and cemetery, originally constructed in 1654. The Barbados National Trust property also features a spring-fed mikveh, whose discovery was hailed as one of tremendous historical importance. Otherwise, we were back near the cricket ground to embark on an additional delight of a Caribbean vacation - a five-hour catamaran cruise with Tiami cruises, taking in some picture-perfect scenery.

There were stops for swimming or snorkelling with turtles and, at lunchtime, the opportunity for a swim ashore for those unable to countenance half-a-day without quality beach time.

I took the offer of a champagne cocktail on boarding the catamaran and, better still, the follow-up of a rum punch (drinks and lunch were included in the cruise price).

I kept the crew company while the missus and the other passengers did the turtle thing. I don't know what I missed, apparently. Such was my blissful state by the time the food was served that I found it hysterically funny when, asked what the fish was, the captain replied: "Dead."

Thankfully lunch was over when the heavens opened and we were drenched in the matter of seconds it took us to join the other bedraggled passengers under the small semi-sheltered area.

Rain may have stopped play once again at the Kensington Oval but our boat sailed on - and they were still serving at the bar.

Having a blow-out in the Windies

Marcus Dysch — Thu, 26 May 2011 11:10:33 +0100

The small Caribbean island may be only a 10-hour flight away on the other side of the Atlantic, but you are greeted by scenes you would have thought probably only possible in paradise: beautiful blue skies, the ocean lapping at the side of the runway, and scorching sunshine.

And it's just as breathtaking at the Spice Island Beach Resort, a beach-side suite and cottage complex about 20 minutes from the capital, St George's. Local entrepreneur Sir Royston Hopkin built the resort in 1961, although it has been renovated numerous times and most recently following Hurricane Ivan. As you might expect in the West Indies, life at Spice Island is pretty slow. There is not a great deal to do other than sunbathe, but then that is what you are there for. Should the occasional cloud spoil your sunbathing then it's a good idea to venture further afield. The best way to see what the island has to offer is on a mini-bus tour.

There is no better guide than local celebrity Mandoo. He regularly pops up on TV and radio to discuss island issues, and is one of the most popular men in Grenada.

Everywhere we go he receives a wave and a smile from his adoring public. He claims to know 50,000 of the island's inhabitants and given the number who stopped to chat to him, I wouldn't doubt him.

The top attractions on his all-day tour include Caribbean classics such as waterfalls, a cocoa plantation and a rum distillery.

At the Dougaldston cocoa plantation you get an explanation of how cocoa beans are picked, dried and turned at the start of the chocolate-making process.

The technicalities were a little over my head, but peeling open a cocoa bean from its slippery pod and popping it in your mouth is a remarkable experience. You'll also see how nutmeg, mace, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves are picked and processed for use in a variety of foods and medicines. They don't call Grenada the "spice island" for no reason. The guided tour of Rivers rum distillery provides an insight into another industry that European tourists are unlikely to have witnessed before. Its original distillery wheel was brought to the island from Derby in 1785 and is still in working order. Local sugar cane, the majority grown on the estate, is turned into the shockingly strong 75 per cent proof product that Grenadians love so much.

At the Grenada Chocolate Company's factory, across the road from the Prime Minister's home, is a chance to see how cocoa beans are roasted and ground into liquid to be turned into bars of the darkest, most bitter chocolate you can imagine. Kimon the chocolatier hands out free samples.

As we wind our way through the precariously narrow streets everyone waves and a smiles. Apparently it's an island-wide, government-encouraged initiative to make visitors feel welcome. It works.

The final stop is to Grandetang lake, high in the mountains. Two cheeky mona breed monkeys pop their heads out of the bushes, run along a fence and allow tourists to feed them bananas. They sit and pose for pictures before darting off back into the trees.

One of Grenada's supposed highlights is the weekly Fish Friday event in the town of Gouyave. Billed as an opportunity to see the best the island's fishing industry, it sadly proves to be a far from heimishe night out.

After a treacherous journey through the steepest, narrowest, windiest roads on the island, we arrive at what amounts to a couple of tents and cooking stands serving up fried delicacies such as squid and crab back. The expected range of tasty, and indeed kosher, fish unfortunately did not materialise.

A day of torrential rain admittedly hampered the event's usual flamboyance. Booming RnB music and the smell of marijuana wafted across the narrow, dirty backstreets. The entire scene did not fit in with all the other luxuries experienced on the otherwise five-star trip.

When it finally came to getting back on the bus, I couldn't clamber aboard fast enough. I rather suspect a good number of you wouldn't have even disembarked in the first place.

Travellers of a nervous and even vaguely kosher disposition would be well advised to give Fish Friday a miss and stay in the comfort of the hotel.

Once back at Spice Island, I took myself off to Jarissa's Spa. The purpose-built block, which includes a full gym and hairdressing salon. Mavis my masseuse put me at ease for my full body Swedish massage. She began with some gentle back rubbing, regularly checking I could still breathe with my face stuffed into the small round head rest at the top of the table.

While Mavis dug her thumbs and elbows into a variety of tight muscles I lay there pondering the fact that people voluntarily spend $100 on such punishment.

An hour later I staggered about in a state of Norman Wisdom-like discombobulation for some time before putting my robe back on, albeit back to front.

It was an interesting hour but far less comfortable than the many subsequent ones spent at the bar supping Mudslide cocktails, mixed by waitress Shelma and containing a tasty mix of Baileys, vodka, coconut milk and chocolate syrup.

I may well have looked like Del Boy at his peak (the mini umbrella was all that was missing) but never let it be said that Grenadians don't know how to entertain their guests.

It is, without doubt, one of the most welcoming nations on earth.