Tel Aviv-Jaffa 2011

Hooked on Jaffa

Ann Goldberg — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:09:10 +0000

As you stroll southwards along the Tel Aviv boardwalk, the familiar promontory of Jaffa is always in your sight. Its ancient timeless beauty unchanged, it is a perfect contrast to the busy, bustling modernity of Tel Aviv.

Jaffa is 4,000 years old, making it probably the world's oldest port. It is mentioned several times in the Bible, including its appearance as the starting point of Jonah's ill-fated voyage, when he attempted to escape from his prophetic duty before being swallowed by the enormous fish and it is also the port to which the cedars of Lebanon were shipped for building the Temple.

Local fisherman still sit patiently hauling in their catch from the Mediterranean waters, while small boats take visitors on short trips around the port and out to sea along the Tel Aviv coastline.

But big changes are afoot in the port area. A new business-leisure centre is being built in the old dilapidated warehouses which include restaurants, coffee shops, art galleries shops and theatres. But at the same time the character of the fishing port is being preserved and the fisherman continue to haul in their successes while watching the visitors enjoying themselves.

When you need a break from the White City next door, it's a joy to wander around the little hidden alleyways and cobblestone passages and come across a cosy restaurant in one and an art gallery tucked away around a corner in another. Walking along the newly extended boardwalk at sunset is unforgettable and as the lights go on around you, you can find a quiet seafront restaurant to sit and enjoy a delicious fresh fish meal while enjoying the evening sea breeze

Walk up from the port area to Kedumim Square, the main square of the Old City and see the brand new zodiac fountain which echoes the zodiac theme of Jaffa's Old City. Many streets are named after the various signs of the zodiac and tradition has it that if a bride stands on the Wishing Bridge, with her hand of her zodiac sign and stares out to sea while making a wish, it is said that it will be granted. Take a walk from here past the Wishing Bridge and up to the park and enjoy the glorious view as well as several sculptures by famous Israeli artists.

Kedumim Square is also the place to find upscale shops and restaurants and beneath the square the archaeological remains of Jaffa are being readied for viewing by the public.

Don't miss the fun of the flea market where you can find everything from junk to jewels. Hone your bargaining skills and see just how low you can get the price. The best day is Friday morning.

If you're in the area on a Wednesday, be sure to join up with the free municipality tour of Jaffa. Meet at 9.30 am at the Ottoman Clock Tower at the northern entrance to the city, across the road from the new Tourist Information office.

Watch this space

Steve K Walz — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:09:10 +0000

Tel Aviv-Jaffa is putting the finishing touches to a variety of projects that will enhance its image as Israel's city of culture. According to Tslilit Ben-Nevat, director of the department of art at the Municipality of Tel Aviv-Jaffa, at least four of the city's cultural icons have undergone transformations - the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, Cinema-thèque, Habima Theatre and Heichal Ha'Tarbut (Mann Auditorium).

"Mayor Ron Huldai has been deeply involved in improving and expanding the city's various cultural activities," says Ms Ben-Nevat.

"We are aiming to promote 2012 as a 'year of art' with a variety of grand openings, events and conferences for the local public, as well as visiting tourists. A number of celebrations will be centred on the re-opening of the Tel Aviv Museum of Art later this month.

The museum's Herta and Paul Amir Building is opening a 195,000 sq ft addition to the impressive complex. Designed by Preston Scott Cohen, chair of the Department of Architecture at the Harvard Graduate School of Design, the Herta and Paul Amir Building is a striking landmark, a fusion of baroque and modern, in harmony with its surroundings (see page 20).

The Habima Theatre (see page 44) re-opened recently, after a top-to-bottom renovation.

The Cinemathèque, which shows avant garde, classic and contemporary films by both local and international production houses, will re-open this month, after doubling the space within its unique structure.

Tel Aviv's Heichal Hatarbut (Mann Auditorium), which opened in 1957 and has staged performances by the likes of the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra, the London Symphony Orchestra, Leonard Bernstein, is also in the midst of an upgrade.

Some of the main events of Tel Aviv's Year of Art will take place from March 21 to 24, 2012, with open-air festivities, community events, educational initiatives, conferences and celebrations.

Colourful details of the bigger picture:

MARCH 21
Fresh Paint contemporary art fair
Israel’s most important art event, attracting over 35,000 visitors every year, the fair provides a meeting place for art lovers, artists and art professionals and an opportunity to purchase the work of top contemporary artists. www.freshpaint.co.il/en

MARCH 22
Art Marathon: 24 hours in the Tel Aviv Museum
The Tel Aviv Museum of Art will stay open all day and night, with exhibitions, lectures from curators and artists and many events.

Keifer @ Tel Aviv: a special exhibition by Anslem Keifer
VIP tour of the opening exhibit: a unique collection of Anslem Kiefer’s paintings, which has been curated especially for the opening of the Tel Aviv Museum.

Global PechaKucha in Tel Aviv
PechaKucha was devised in Tokyo in 2003 as a public showcase for young designers.

Drawing its name from the Japanese term for “chit-chat”, PechaKucha brings various artists to one stage — each artist has six minutes and 40 seconds to present an innovative project.
Tel Aviv’s version of PechaKucha is one of the largest in the world and attracts thousands every year.
Global PechaKucha in Tel Aviv will take place in the open air, outside the museum.
www.pechakuchatlv.com

MARCH 23
Tel Aviv art tours
Numerous art tours will be offered throughout the city, focusing on museums, galleries, alternative spaces, studios.
A special emphasis is placed on collaborations between Israeli and international artists.

Heritage Mile inauguration
A festive ceremony to launch Heritage Mile – a thematic path through the city’s cultural and historic landmarks. Many of the landmarks are in the White City – the historic and architectural zone declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco in 2003.

GAGA with Ohad Naharin
Gaga is a special movement language developed by Israeli choreographer Ohad Naharin throughout his work as artistic director of the Batsheva Dance Company.
Gaga has two tracks: Gaga/dancers, which is the daily training of Batsheva Dance Company members and Gaga/people, open to the public and available for everyone at any age. No previous experience is necessary.

MARCH 24
“Art Show”
The Tel Aviv Museum of Art will host art performances fusing music, dance, video-art and more.
The show will be held in the open air and attended by tens of thousands, across many streets and locations in Tel Aviv.

Cultivated land

Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:09:09 +0000

When you think of Israel's original pioneers, you inevitably conjure up pictures of muscular young men and women clearing malaria-infested swamps and building agricultural and infrastructure enterprises. But when Ami Federmann's family arrived in pre-state Israel from Germany, they set aside their European agricultural expertise in favour of "building" the pioneering concept of Israeli hospitality.

In 1947, Ami's uncle and father purchased a 21-room guest house, dubbed the "Kaete Dan", directly across the street from the inviting Mediterranean seashore. Six years later, the Federmanns transformed the property into what was to become Tel Aviv's first luxury hotel, the Dan Tel Aviv.

"Farmers are always tied to the land in one form or another, it's a way of life," says Ami Federmann, now vice chairman of the Dan Hotels Corporation. "My uncle and father never gave up on that concept. By building a hotel, we actually maintained our way of life by putting down roots within the realm of the Zionist connection to the land. They believed that this [hotel business] would be good for the country and endure even during difficult times. Their philosophy was based on a simple premise. They believed that Jews from all over the world would come to see the wonders of the new state of Israel."

The success of the Dan Tel Aviv luxury hotel concept became the foundation for the Federmann family's Dan Hotel chain, which over several decades mushroomed into premier holiday destinations for both overseas and local tourists, with 14 hotels offering first-class Israeli hospitality.

Though he is also President of the Israel Hotel Association, which represents the commercial and marketing interests of the country's entire hotel industry, Federmann reiterates that Tel Aviv is Israel's tourism epicentre. "Tel Aviv is a modern Israeli city without the burden of history or heritage," he says. "It is not promoted as a historical city like Jerusalem. And more than anything else the people of Tel Aviv are different from the rest of Israel. It's a vibrant 'world city' that is attracting people from all over to its great beaches, restaurants, all-night clubs art galleries, shopping and son on. This is also the reason why Tel Aviv has become a magnet for young Israelis all over the country.

"From a cultural point of view the city has everything a young Israeli or new immigrant could hope for. Even a simple waitress who moves from the periphery to Tel Aviv might pay much more to rent a studio apartment, but she'll have the potential to earn more by working in Tel Aviv, while actually being a part of the action. In this respect, the presence of a growing, young population adds to the vibrancy of Tel Aviv and impacts tourism in a very positive manner."

As for the city's bustling hotel industry, Federmann adds, "The growth of the smaller, boutique hotels in the city has created a new lifestyle quotient that is generating positive buzz among both tourists who seek a unique experience and smaller developers who believe that this is a global trend that can be quite profitable."

See in a new light

Steve K Walz — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:09:09 +0000

Israelis are renowned for thinking outside the box. In 2002, Adina Tal was approached by a group of deaf and blind people to create a drama class. Though Ms Tal had never done anything like this before, she decided to forge ahead, to see where this unique social experiment would take everyone.

Within a span of five years, the Nalaga'at drama group morphed into a theatre ensemble for deaf and blind people, along with two themed restaurants - Café Kapish, which features deaf waiters and Blackout, where blind people serve customers in darkness.

"What started as a drama class marked the beginning of a revolution. These deaf-blind individuals, who, all their life, had been dependent on society and assisted, were all of a sudden in an entirely different situation. Standing on the stage, they were no longer 'the poor ones', requesting commiseration, but those who were in the position to give, offering their audience the gift of art," says Ms Tal.

The entire operation, including the theatre and restaurants, resides in a former dilapidated warehouse in Jaffa, which was renovated from top to bottom and opened to the public in December 2007.

Nalagaa't is perhaps Israel's most unusual start-up, as it relies on the human spirit to create a profitable bottom line, rather than a high-tech innovation. It is also a showcase of peaceful co-existence between Jews, Christians and Muslims, who are employed in capacities from performers to waiters.

According to Alon Levi, the CEO of Nalaga'at, there are 148 employees, 85 of whom are either deaf or blind.

"Those who work in the theatre group go through a two-year training process, as Nalaga'at has not one but two theatre groups, including a new group that will be performing special shows for children in the near future," says Levi. "There are two guiding principles or messages that the people of Nalaga'at wish to convey to our theatre audiences and restaurant guests alike. Within the realm of the theatre group, it is important for audiences to be able to communicate with people with disabilities within a professional atmosphere.

"The themed restaurants not only highlight the fact that we are giving work to disabled people, but also that disabled people also have the right to give to society and not be dependent upon society.

"We know that these messages do have an effect, because when people leave the theatre or the Blackout restaurant, where diners are served in complete darkness and must rely on the waiters, we can see people expressing their emotions based on the experiences they have just encountered."

Well-connected

Nathan Jeffay — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:09:09 +0000

Torn between the familiarity of a holiday home and the service of a hotel? If so, the construction of the David Promenade Residences will be exciting news. Developers are building two towers on the first line to the sea, one for the Residences and another for a hotel. And those living in the Residences will be able to order almost all the luxuries of the hotel. "This building is really geared for people who want the top of the top," says Eyal Hartogs of Holland Real Estate, exclusive agent for the Residences.

A tunnel will connect the buildings, so residents can order room service, chambermaids and maintenance services. Laundry and dry cleaning will be picked up from apartments and delivered back. They will also receive concierge service. Another tunnel will enable residents to walk straight into the hotel. The Residences will have a communal pool, fitness room and sauna, but residents who want to use the hotel's larger pool or its spa will be able to go there in their bathrobe. It will also provide an express route for residents to the hotel conference rooms or restaurants.

The hotel will carry the prestigious brand of Kempinski, Europe's oldest luxury hotel group. The developer of both the hotel and the Residenc the Nahal Group, owned by entrepreneur Henry Taic, which owns imposing hotels including The David InterContinental in Tel Aviv, The Le Meridien Dead Sea and the Grand Court in Jerusalem.

"Kempinski hotels have won awards all over the world," says Mr Hartogs. "This will be Henry Taic's most luxurious hotel by far and the residents of the David Promenade Residences will enjoy its services."

Builders will break the ground for residences and the hotel later this year or in January 2012 and expect to finish construction in 2015.

The Residences make the most of their beachfront location with floor-to-ceiling windows. They will feature marble flooring in some areas and full wooden flooring in others, electric blinds and eco-friendly air conditioning. Entrance will be through an elegant lobby with a reception.

Larger flats go from 15 to 20 million shekels (around £2.5 million to £3.5 million); smaller ones 4.5 million to 6.5 million shekels (around £775,000 to £1 million). Buyers have the option of combining flats.

Construction has just begun at 10 Herbert Samuel, by the promenade, another development on the first line to the beach that is going for the glass-tastic look with floor-to-ceiling windows. Developer Ofer Investments, one of Israel's largest private groups of companies, describes it as a "very urban building which retains a close dialogue with the sea outside its front door".

There will be 189 sq m townhouse-style"loft apartments" with two balconies totalling 53 sq m and flats of 200 sq m plus a 30 sq m balcony, each "like a villa floating on air". All apartments have a sea-view terrace and are designed with minimal pillars, high ceilings, extra-large spaces and glass walls to lend a sense of freedom.

The building is due to be ready in three years and again, buyers can combine flats. Prices start at £2.2 million. This project includes a rarity on Tel Aviv's shore, a duplex penthouse, over the whole 20th and 21st floors. The penthouse is a massive 668 sq m and has four balconies totalling 116 sq m. The price is £22 million.

The 10 Herbert Samuel homes will be fitted with top-quality flooring, central air conditioning, "smart home" features and green technology. The building will have a lobby with upscale concierge and security and a spa over a whole floor, featuring an indoor pool a children's pool and a fitness room. The company reports that the building is already 50 per cent sold.

Overlooking Herzliya's marina, seven miles north of Tel Aviv, the private holiday homes at The Ritz-Carlton Herzliya are inspired by the luxury marina lifestyle, with terraces giving sweeping views of the Mediterranean. The Ritz-Carlton Residences offer spacious studios, one- and two-bedroom units, duplexes and penthouses, as well as access to five-star amenities including a rooftop pool, spa and fitness centre, Shabbat lifts, kosher restaurant, synagogue and a full management programme.

The rhythm of life

Steve K Walz — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:09:09 +0000

One of the most beloved artists in Tel Aviv's cosmopolitan society, Maestro Zubin Mehta, has transformed the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra (IPO), which recently celebrated its 75th anniversary, into one of the world's premier musical ensembles.

Zubin Mehta, who has been the music director of the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra for 40 years, was born in Bombay, India, and grew up in a musical environment. His father, Mehli Mehta, founded the Bombay Symphony and was music director of the American Youth Symphony in Los Angeles.

Despite this influence, his initial field of study was medicine. At the age of 18, he abandoned his fledgling medical career to attend the Academy of Music in Vienna.

Seven years later, he conducted both the Vienna and Berlin Philharmonics. Maestro Mehta has rapidly become one of the world's most sought-after orchestral and operatic conductors.

From 1961 to 1967, he was music director of the Montreal Symphony and he became music director of the Los Angeles Philharmonic in 1962, a post he retained until 1978.

The Israel Philharmonic Orchestra appointed Mehta as its music advisor in 1969, music director in 1977, and music director for life in 1981.

Combining concerts, recordings and tours, Zubin Mehta has conducted thousands of performances on five continents with the IPO.

Since 1986, he has also acted as music advisor and chief conductor of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, the summer festival in Florence, Italy.

September 1998 marked his five-year appointment as music director of the Bavarian State Opera in Munich.

In 1978, Maestro Mehta became the music director of the New York Philharmonic Orchestra. During his 13 years in New York, he conducted more than 1,000 concerts, holding the position longer than any music director in the orchestra's modern history.

Zubin Mehta has been the recipient of numerous awards and distinctions, in many countries.

In Israel, he has been awarded honorary doctorates by the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, the Tel-Aviv University and the Weizmann Institute. The Hebrew University named a wing of the musicology department after Mehta and his late father.

In 1991, Mehta received a special award during the Israel Prize presentation, and he is also the recipient of the 1995-6 Wolf Foundation Prize for Music and an honorary citizen of Tel Aviv-Jaffa.

Jewel personality

Steve K Walz — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:09:09 +0000

Even with dozens of stores in 20 countries around the globe, Michal Negrin still cannot quite take in the fact that she is the doyenne of a costume jewellery and fashion empire that has captured the imaginations of both teenage girls and sophisticated women alike.

"I don't live my daily life within the context of being the head of an empire. The only time I'm even aware of it, is when foreign tourists come to my flagship store and provide me with feedback on my designs. Then I pause to think about the influence I'm having," she says.

Michal Negrin turned her dreams into reality by channelling the pulse of Tel Aviv into her design concepts. As a young child, growing up amid the laidback atmosphere of Kibbutz Na'an (close to Rehovot), Negrin felt that the nearby metropolis of Tel Aviv "looked like a magical place". She was drawn to the city's eclectic and fast-paced lifestyle.

"I was immediately attracted to the rhythm of the city, the colours, the daring people... These things inspired my ideas," says Negrin. When she set up her first makeshift booth of home-made jewellery and fashion pieces on Tel Aviv's trendy Nahalat Binyamin pedestrian mall, in late 1988, the response from buyers was immediate and overwhelming. Recognising that her unique designs (ranging from lace dresses to costume jewellery) were a hot commodity, Michal decided that the time had arrived to "brand and image" the Negrin collection.

Ironically, the beauty and success of the Negrin collection is predicated on a very simple concept: "I have always been connected to the world of innocence and femininity and loved the nostalgia of things such as dolls and pop-up cards," Negrin recalls. "My fashion and jewellery concepts are designed to rekindle the nostalgia with a twist of modernity and harmony."

Even though 23 years have passed since she started selling her wares, her creative energies are as strong as ever. "My business is my passion," she says. "I feel blessed because it still excites me to come to work each day. The things that I've dreamed about are an everyday reality and I enjoy living the moment."

Several years ago, Negrin decided to "share her world" with local and foreign customers by opening a large flagship store in Bat Yam (near Tel Aviv) incorporating a product gallery and visitors' centre. It has quickly become a magnet for buyers, browsers and neophyte designers alike. For Negrin, the store also reflects Israel's positive energy. "There are so many perceived negative notions about Israel in the world, so my idea was to create a place that reflected joy and harmony," she says. "Tourists who come and visit are overwhelmed when they see this place, because it provides them with a positive perspective, akin to a polished pearl."

Life in the fast lane

Simon Griver — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:09:09 +0000

Even entering Tel Aviv, one of the world's high-tech capitals, has been an innovative experience, since the Tel Aviv Fast Lane was opened in January, billed as the world's first dynamic toll road. The fee paid varies according to the number of vehicles using the 13km (eight-mile) stretch of highway leading from Ben Gurion Airport to Tel Aviv.

The Fast Lane is a fourth lane entering Tel Aviv on Highway 1 (Jerusalem-Tel Aviv highway), designed to offer an alternative to sitting in the morning rush hour, for drivers prepared to pay for it. There is no similar lane coming out of the city.

The toll is marked at the entrance to the lane and ranges from NIS 7 to NIS 75 (£1.20 to £13) when congestion peaks (6.30am to 9.30am). The driver pays the toll marked at the time of entry, regardless of whether the price rises or falls when they are on the lane. However, the fast lane takes a charge of a further NIS 27 (£5) for drivers who have not registered their vehicle in advance on the internet or by phone.

On average, the toll in the morning rush hour is about NIS 40 (£7). In return, drivers can complete the stretch of road leading to the Kibbutz Galuyot Interchange at the southern entrance to the Ayalon Highway in just 11 minutes, while those who do not pay sit in traffic for 30 to 45 minutes. The toll is collected automatically, with the licence plate photographed and the bill posted to the vehicle's owner.

The Fast Lane has been controversial at a time of social protests about the widening gaps between rich and poor in Israel, with the wealthy speeding into the city, while most working Israelis sit in the jams and watch them whizz by.

However, the toll highway operators argue that the Fast Lane has other features that make it both socially and environmentally friendly. Firstly, buses (and taxis) go free, meaning that those who can afford only public transport get into the city faster.

Secondly, cars with four or more passengers (including the driver) also go free, although despite the high-tech nature of the project, this requires the driver to enter the car park zone and register with an inspector.

Thirdly the Fast Lane also has a free park-and-ride feature. Drivers can enter the Fast Lane, leave the car in a large car park just before the Shappirim Interchange and then board buses to the Azrieli Centre or the Ramat Gan Diamond Exchange. Both the parking and the bus are free, but some users have complained of being mistakenly billed. However, bearing in mind that parking can cost £3 per hour in Tel Aviv, this can be the cheapest way of visiting the city. Cars left in the car park after 11.30pm will be charged an overnight fee.

There are no exits from the Fast Lane, so drivers wishing to travel on Highway 4 to the north or south should not use the facility. There is also no access to the Fast Lane from the Ben Gurion Airport Interchange, so drivers should travel eastwards first to the Lod Interchange and then return on Highway 1.

Motorcyclists pay only half the toll, but those with hired cars will be asked to pay handling fees of several pounds above the toll itself, which can make the Fast Lane uneconomical for some tourists.

Time signature

Steve K Walz — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:09:09 +0000

Three gifted artists have conceived a slick stage show in a warehouse in the port of Jaffa, combining an electic array of art disciplines, reflecting the rhythms and talents of each performer. Welcome to Mayumana mania!

For the past 15 years, Eylon Nuphar, Boaz Berman and Roy Ofer have been constantly tweaking and upgrading the Mayumana concept to keep it fresh and thought-provoking.

"It took us almost two years just to find the right individuals, including dancers, musicians and actors, which translated into more than 800 open auditions, luring talented performers from all over the world, including Israel, Curacao, Canada and America.

"It was important to build an international cast from the word go, because the goal was to take this show on the road, as well as playing before audiences in the metro Tel Aviv region," says Roy Ofer, producer of Mayumana.

"The secret to this show is that the troupe must know how to play to and with the audience. The show could actually change, based on the audience that is in the house. This is why our troupe must be multi-talented."

Mayumana, says Ofer, "is a unique show that it isn't easy to classify. It explores the subjects of rhythm, percussion and dance within the realm of time and technology.

"Time is our source of inspiration. What if we could freeze or even duplicate time? The performers must use their skills in this case to play among themselves, as well as members of the audience.

"We realised right away that Mayumana was more than a show, but a one-of-a-kind experience, which is why it plays so well to visiting tourists in Israel. There are no language barriers in this show."

With two companies (local and international) playing to audiences in Israel and abroad, more than 4 million people have experienced Mayumana mania during the past decade alone.

After their 15 years of hard work and on-going positive feedback, Ofer and his colleagues look back at their body of work within the realm of the show's main theme - time.

"For me, the 15 years feels like one long day," says Ofer.

"Between creating a unique show and turning a rundown warehouse in Jaffa into a trendy attraction, I think we all feel as if that we are still in our formative stages. It's as if we are still dealing with the first steps in a long-term project.

"We have already created a second show, with a different theme. All together, we are producing and directing 130 shows a year. Yes, it's a lot of hours and very hard work, but it's also good that we can entertain audiences in a unique way and still make a living out of it!"

Carving a niche

Nathan Jeffay — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:09:08 +0000

It's cool cuisine. Literally. Order sashimi in the Olive Leaf restaurant in the Sheraton Tel Aviv and it comes on what looks like a glass tray with circular sections for soy sauce, ginger and chilli mayonnaise. But the tray is actually an ice carving, prepared by chef Charlie Fadida.

Mr Fadida is one of Israel's top ice sculptors. Sitting in his restaurant he proudly shows videos of him carving all sorts of designs from large animals to the Sheraton's logo. For large designs like these he uses huge saws and tools that he brought from Japan. The sashimi tray is child's play by comparison.

The sashimi is far from the only inventive dish on the Olive Leaf's menu. Others include salmon prepared using the blowtorch technique normally reserved from crème brûlée.

It is a restaurant where the term "fusion cuisine", often merely interpreted as "anything goes", takes on its proper meaning. Olive Leaf goes in for disciplined cooking, with a twist. So, for example, the classic French goose liver pâté goes Middle Eastern with a baklava shell made from filo pastry and date honey.

"I have French friends who come and say: 'This chef, he's crazy as he's broken the rules', but it seems to work," says Mr Fadida.

Another restaurant with the confidence to innovate is Liliyot, which was declared by the recently deceased Daniel Rogov, Israel's most-respected food and wine critic, to be Israel's best kosher restaurant.

Starters there include grilled chicken liver on toast with bananas and vanilla caramel; green asparagus with popcorn cream, soft boiled egg and bitter chocolate and sirloin carpaccio with asparagus, pickled radish and black pepper vinaigrette.

Most impressive are the main courses, which show the ability of chef Noam Dekkers to use complex flavourings - as in the goose supreme in citrus honey and cinnamon with a tart cream of Granny Smith apples - and to explore cutting-edge methods such as vacuum cooking, which is used for the succulent roasted, boneless, marbled and aged premium cut of prime rib. The wine list includes reds from the boutique Yatir Winery, a favourite with connoisseurs and some fine merlot-cabernet sauvignon fusions.

If you plan to be in Tel Aviv over Rosh Hashanah, Succot or Passover, it is worth finding out about the David InterContinental's festive meals. In the evenings it opens up its enormous Grand Ballroom (or on Succot a huge succah) for a lavish feast where wine and soft drinks flow freely, all included in the price. Special stands offer kid-friendly food and there are plenty of lean options for the health conscious. Highlights include the carveries and exuberant dessert buffets.

Over the past few years, the quality dining culture of Tel Aviv has spread out along the coast, meaning that today if you are staying in Herzliya you have excellent eating-out options close by.

One trendsetter in Herzliya is The Meat & Wine Co. This is one of a small international group of steakhouse restaurants started in South Africa, which has branches in Australia, Bahrain, the Middle East, South Africa, Mozambique and the UK. The emphasis is on ageing the meat correctly and serving it with immaculate presentation. The chain's South African origins are honoured with favourites from that country, such as biltong, a cured meat.

As the restaurant's name suggests, the wine list is extensive. All Israeli, it includes wines from Gamla, Yarden as well as small well-regarded wineries like Bazelet Hagolan.