In defence of large portions

Metro reviewer Marina O'Loughlin enjoyed Mishkin's, London's new Jewish-themed but distinctly unkosher deli which serves smoked eel and pork hot dog beside chicken soup and knishes. But she was less than reverential about some classic New York models.

A recent meal at the kosher 2nd Ave Deli in Manhattan had "verged on the revolting" with an "obnoxious" parev cream cheese.

Mishkin's Reuben sandwich might have been smaller than the American original - it would have been "laughed out of Katz" - but she was happier with one "I can get my gob around".

Too much for Jeremy Brier of Spitalfields, who wrote to us bristling at the idea of a Jewish-deli reviewer who "enjoys being served smaller portions" and fails to appreciate that "2nd Ave Deli and Katz's in New York are two of the greatest places in the world".

    Last updated: 11:37am, January 26 2012