Blame it on Nobu, that Japanese chef so beloved of fashionable diners.
Within a decade of him taking a humble, inexpensive and, some would say, unremarkable fatty fish and giving it an extraordinary treatment, he has single-handedly created a world market for black cod.
And it is not just for the sushi crowd — this new addition to top fishmongers’ slabs is now making an appearance at simchahs.
“When we serve it as part of a mixed starter, it’s always the star of the plate,” says Sarah Taylor of kosher caterers Tony Page.